ISRAEL AND THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES CALORIES, SHMALORIES: Let the gooey-sweet goodness of Rukab's Ice Cream in Ramallah dribble down your chin; gorge yourself on the sticky sweets in Gaza City's Arafat Sweets ; and go heavy on the heavenly choco- late syrup on your waffle from Babette's Party in Jerusalem . LOOK BUT DON'T FALL OFF: The Negev contains geological formations found nowhere else in the world. The Makhtesh Ramon crater is the closest most humans will ever come to seeing a Martian landscape. Multi-col- ored sand decorates the floor of nearby Mitzpeh Ramon. Ben-Gurion told Israelis, "Go to the desert." A visit to his tomb in Sdeh Boker on the edge of the Zin Canyon offers perhaps the most beau- tiful view in all of Israel. DRINK BUT DON'T FALL DOWN: The choice is yours: sip coffee delicately, or be a downright lush. Go for the latter at Forum in Be'er Sheva, and watch out for the spaceship. If you prefer the former, there's always enough time to wax intellectual at Tmol Shilshom in Jerusalem, which attracts read- ers by day and famous writers by night. CARNIVORES BEWARE: The vegan community of Dimona in the Negev offers the best tofu in all of Israel, made by the Hebrew Israelites, also known as the Black Hebrews. IF YOU GO-A, GET A BOA: Feed your shopping addiction on Sheinken St. with the trendiest of the trendy , and stop in at the nearby Schwartz's Fancy Feathers for a fab cocktail party accessory. For a less opulent display, head on down to Mahaneh Yehuda in Jerusalem, and bid on fresh vegetables and pita. The gargantuan Bedouin Market in Be'er Sheva hides a few gems amidst piles upon piles of kitsch. SHINY, HAPPY SEA PEOPLE: Eilat is said to have some of the best scuba div- ing in the world ; try the Japa- nese Gardens, or, for bigger fish, take a dip at Dolphin Reef. The diving in Sinai is also extraordinary ; explore the underwater remains of the shipwreck Yolanda in the renowned Ras Muham- mad National Park or Thistlegorm, the world's best wreck dive. AND TO ALL A GOOD NIGHT: Israel offers all kinds of lodging in all kinds of places. Desert Shade is an eco- friendly oasis in the heart of the Negev with amazing views of the Ramon Crater, and Fata Morgana , near the Dead Sea, is a secluded, bedouin-style, desert retreat. Camping out on the peak of Mount Sinai , however, could be the cheapest option, and the best experience of your life. SUGGESTED ITINERARIES 15 SUGGESTED ITINERARIES The following itineraries are meant as guidelines and generally leave 1-2 days extra for filling in the gaps. ITINERARY 1 One week can be adequate for hitting Israel's high- lights. Begin in Jerusalem -everyone else does-for an incredible encounter with Israel's cultural, religious, historical, and political climate. Spend at least 2 days in the Old City and another day exploring other neighborhoods.