GETTING AROUND. More Israelis have been killed in car accidents than in all of the country's wars combined. Israel has a bad reputation when it comes to driving, and with good reason. Drunk driving is prevalent, and the windy, hilly roads don't help. If you are using a car, learn local driving signals and wear a seatbelt. Children under 18kg should ride only in a specially-designed carseat, available for a small fee from most car rental agencies. Study route maps before you hit the road; some roads, particularly in the Negev and in the Golan, have poor shoulders or few gas stations. In some regions, road conditions necessitate driving far more slowly and more cautiously than you would at home. In most cases you will be presented with two options for reaching your destination: the scenic route or the highway. Make sure you know what you're getting into if you choose the former-the roads are often barely wide enough for one car, yet buses will blast past you in the opposite direction. If you plan on spending a lot of time on the road, you may want to bring spare parts. For long drives in desolate areas invest in a cellular phone and a roadside assistance program. Car phones are ubiquitous in Israel, and most rental cars have them built in. When you rent the car, you'll have to determine whether you want the more expensive with-phone plan. Cellular phones are responsible for many car-accidents. As a result, the laws regarding them are stringently enforced. Do not hold the phone while you are driving . If you do, you're likely to be hit with another car, a heavy fine, or both. Be sure to park your vehicle in a garage or well-traveled area, and use a steering wheel locking device in larger cities. Sleeping in your car is one of the most dangerous ways to get your rest. If your car breaks down, wait for the police to assist you. Let's Go does not recommend hitchhiking under any circumstances, particularly for women. For more information see Getting Around, p. 69. SELF DEFENSE. There is no sure-fire way to avoid all the threatening situations you might encounter when you travel, but a good self-defense course will give you concrete ways to react to unwanted advances. Impact, Prepare, and Model Mugging can refer you to local self-defense courses in the US . Visit the web site for a list of nearby chapters. Workshops start at US$50; full courses run US$350-500. PROTECTING YOUR VALUABLES. To prevent easy theft, don't keep all your valu- ables in one place. Photocopies of important doc- uments allow you to recover them in case they are lost or filched. Carry one copy separate from the documents and leave another at home. Fortunately, Israel is a very small country, so it's easy to leave your valuables in a safe deposit box in Jerusalem or Tel Aviv. You'll always be within a couple hours of your ticket home. Label every piece of luggage both inside and out.